Upgrading The Galley Sink
Boats of all shapes and sizes can be outfitted with options that replicate the comforts of home. A sink is one such option.
By Steve Noury
February 1, 2006
Step 1: Mounting the faucet is the first step. Drill a 3/4-inch hole in the
countertop. In this example, the old faucet left a larger hole than was needed. There are several
ways to address this problem - we chose to fabricate a small 2x3-inch mounting plate out of some
hard plastic we had available. The test product also provided an adapter plate that could be used
to re-size the hole if you prefer. Next, slide the black gasket, then the spacer, over the wires
and onto the bottom of the unit. Now you're ready to test mount the unit in the hole. Check to see
if enough threads show through the bottom of the cabinet to attach the nut. If not enough of the
threads show, then remove the spacer. Next, slide the nut over the wires and tighten onto the
threads - make it snug, but do not overtighten.
Step 2: After you've test mounted the unit in the hole, the next step is to mount
the electric pump. It can be mounted in any position. Be sure that you mount the pump level with or
below the bottom of your freshwater tank. The pump should be as close as possible to the tank.
If there's positive head pressure from the water tank to the pump inlet, the pump will prime. If mounted above the lowest water level, the pump may require forced priming before operating. Never mount the pump more than 4 inches above the lowest water level. Secure the pump with the screws provided through the rubber grommets (do not over-compress).
Use thread-locking compounds on the machine screws if necessary.
Step 3: Next is wiring the pump to the power source. The pump should be on a
dedicated (individual) circuit, and must be protected by a fuse/circuit breaker as listed on the
motor label. The positive (+) side should be fused between the power supply and the on/off switch.
Failure to provide this safety precaution could lead to the motor failing, so do not skip this
step. A switch rated at or above 3.0 amps is recommended, and it must interrupt current flow on the
positive (+, red) lead. The switch used here (supplied separately) was also U/L Marine-approved.
The recommended wire size (not included) is 16 gauge. You can use larger wire, but not smaller. The
negative (-) lead wire should be connected to a known ground, and should be the same gauge as the
positive (+) lead wire.
Step 4: The final step is "plumbing" the system from the tank to the pump and on
to the faucet. Use flexible 3/8-inch I.D. tubing with a pressure rating of 25 psi or higher. You
may already have the right tubing necessary for the job from the old hand-pump faucet. If not, you
need to purchase it separately. Tubing clamps should also be used to secure the ends over the barb
fittings. Never plumb the pump with excessive stress on either port, as it could cause damage and
possible pump failure. Last, but not least, is the installation of a small mesh strainer to prevent
foreign debris from entering the pump. The strainer should be installed within the tubing between
the tank and the pump inlet. Your new faucet is now ready for use! At zero head, open flow will be
approximately 1 gallon per minute.
related articles:
Upgrading The Galley Sink: Boats of all shapes and sizes can be outfitted with options that replicate the comforts of home. A sink is one such option.
