New Attitude
Replacing the carpet on your pontoon can revamp your boat and leave it looking brand new.
March 1, 2006
Since your pontoon boat has spent far too much time out in the sun providing you with a
platform for untold amounts of watery fun, you've finally decided to spruce things up a bit and
re-do the carpeting. Replacing the carpet happens to be one of the simplest ways to perk up the
looks of your pontoon boat, and all it requires is getting rid of that threadbare and faded excuse
for a carpet that's on there now, and replacing it with one that's plush, colorful and - most
importantly - good for another decade or so.
Replacing your carpet isn't the roughest job in the world, nor the most expensive, but it isn't easy either. Like most things having to do with boats, effort in preparation will pay off during installation.
WHAT YOU NEED
First off, tools. A utility knife (sheetrock knife, carpet knife, etc.) is a must have. As an alternative, an Olfa rotary knife will do the job even better than utility knives (the Deluxe 60mm rotary costs around $30; www.olfablades.com).
One thing to remember, regardless of what you use, is that you want sharp blades ... and lots of them. The rotary blades won't get chewed up as quickly as the utility blades, but the sharper the blade, the easier (which also means safer) and neater the cuts. In other words, change blades (especially in utility knives) often if there's a lot of cutting to do.
The second tool you'll want is a heavy-duty scraper (again with plenty of blades). Keeping the scraper blades sharp is also a safety measure and goes a long way toward making the job easier.
Other tools needed include a tape measurer, steel straight edge, heavy-duty rubber gloves and a Magic Marker. A decent sander isn't a necessity, but if you've got one, it won't hurt to give the old deck a sanding before you start laying carpet.
One specialty tool you'll need is an adhesive spreader. This is a rectangular
trowel with a C-shaped handle in the center and square "teeth" on two sides; go for eighth-inch
(1/8) teeth. This will be used to spread the carpet adhesive. A recommended brand is Synergistecs
240, but any contact cement/adhesive specifically meant for outdoor carpet installation will work;
the average pontoon will require at least two gallons. You'll also need some lacquer thinner or
other chemical agent to help scrape up the adhesive residue left by the old carpet - an important
part of the project.
A word of caution: The adhesive and solvent fumes are potent and flammable - you might want to consider a respirator if you're working in an enclosed space. This project requires excellent ventilation and is best handled as an open-air project. Keep open flames, etc., away from the work surface.
You'll also want something with which to roll and apply pressure to the carpet once it's been laid. A wooden rolling pin will work if you have a strong back and arms. They make rollers for rolling out Formica and related countertop material, but you can also use a good piece of tubular wood or metal rigged to a rolling handle (similar to a paint roller). A last option is to rent one - ask for a 50-pound carpet roller.
CHOOSING THE CARPET
There's not a lot of arcane info to deal with regarding carpeting. Some boaters have opted to go with regular outdoor carpet, and few report any problems if the installation is done correctly. The problem, however, is longevity, and marine-specific carpet is going to last - and look good - longer.
There are different weights of marine carpet, and quality is discernible by feel. The plusher the carpet feels, the better the quality. Twenty-ounce carpet seems to be the mid-range weight, but depending on usage, how you store/cover your boat, what colors are available, how thick your wallet is, etc., you can go heavier (28- to 30-ounce). If you're going to put all of this effort into restoring your pontoon's looks, it's recommended that you not go lighter than 16 ounces.
You shouldn't encounter "loop" carpeting when dealing in marine carpeting. This is where the individual carpet fibers form a loop, and is most often found in regular outdoor carpeting, not marine-specific types. If, for some reason, you do encounter it, avoid it like the plague. No matter how you place a fishing rod down on it or use one near it, the hook will grab and stick in the loop.
You're looking for carpet with a heavy rubber backing, with material that's UV-stabilized and preferably made of Olefin fabric. Olefin is a polypropylene (and polyethylene) fabric that first appeared in the late '50s and offers good abrasion resistance; is colorfast and quick drying; is resistant to deterioration from chemicals, mildew, rot and weather; is stain-, soil- and sunlight-resistant; and is extremely lightweight. Most stains on this fabric can be readily removed with lukewarm water and detergent.
Cabela's (800/237-4444; www.cab-elas.com), Matworks (800/795-MATS; www.matworks.com) and R&R Textiles (800/835-5920; www.rrtextiles.com) are three carpet manufacturers, but by no means the only ones.
GETTING PREPARED
The hardest job with this project is removing the old carpet. An important factor to consider is whether there are too many complicated corners to keep the carpet intact and make a template. There shouldn't be on a pontoon boat, and you should be able to draw a good schematic using a tape measurer.
However, another reason to carefully remove a carpet is to avoid having to do a lot of scraping of the old rubber backing. This is where the chemicals come in handy. As you pull the old carpet up, use some of the chemical agent along the edge and in conjunction with the scraper to remove the backing along with the carpet. A sharp scraper really comes into play here (think about removing a window sticker from an auto windshield). A dull blade can hang up, slip and/or release at inopportune times, and you could end up with fat lips, split chins or worse.
You must have patience when removing the carpet. Going too fast and tearing away with abandon will cause you to have to go back and re-do the entire floor to remove that thin layer of backing that's still there. Take your time to do it right, do it slow, do it once.
LAYING IT DOWN
Roll the carpet with the topside (the side you'll be walking on) in, and roll it width-wise. This entire job can be done alone, but it's a whole lot easier with a helper.
The adhesive you'll be using is temperature-sensitive, so pay attention to the working range instructions on the can. The colder the air temp, the longer it will take to set; and it can be too cold out to use. You'll also want to take note of how fast your adhesive "skims," or gets tacky (read your adhesive's specific layout instructions).
These adhesives have a somewhat critical working time frame. Once you start, you'll need to finish the job, so plan accordingly.
Another concern is that you should only be covering "x" amount of area with adhesive (read the instructions) at a time. Spread glue, roll carpet, press carpet with roller. Spread glue, roll carpet, etc.
The adhesive is spread in lines created by the slots in the trowel edge. You can lay the adhesive in decorative swirls and curves (you have to entertain yourself a little), but you're trying to achieve complete coverage - there should be no areas where there isn't adhesive.
Match the carpet with the leading edge of your deck (if your deck is slightly V-shaped, lay it square and remove the extra carpeting rather than pre-cutting the carpeting) and slowly and carefully start rolling it onto the adhesive. As the carpet goes down, use the roller - put some body weight into it - to "embed" the carpet into the adhesive. Continue as noted above; i.e., spread, roll, press.
Avoid getting any adhesive on the carpet pile, and if you do, use your chemical agent (that you've tested to make sure it doesn't change the color of the carpet) to wipe it now, rather than after the adhesive sets. Continue the process, and presto: You've got a "brand new" pontoon boat.
If there are round cuts to be made (around seat or table bases), do not cut them until after the carpet is laid. All you need to do when you reach these irregularities is ensure that there's no glue or adhesive on the base and lay the carpet over them with a "cross" cut where the base is located at the length of the circle's diameter. This will allow the carpet to set flat; you can trim the remains afterwards.
As for intricate corners - such as stanchion uprights - simply cut two slits the length of the upright and leave the flap. Again, make sure there is no adhesive on the upright; this allows the carpet to lay flat and set, then you can trim the pieces after.
If your pontoon happens to have a lot of ins and outs, the best thing to do is make a template (assuming you couldn't keep the old carpet intact). You can precut the carpet to fit the template, but adhere to the "measure twice, cut once" rule. As always, it pays to be longer rather than shorter. For most long runs; i.e., the length of a lounge seat, etc., this should be pretty straightforward and simple to measure correctly. Leaving excess material will make laying the carpet more difficult, so measuring is key here.
Quick Tips
Replacing your carpet isn't the roughest job in the world, nor the most expensive, but it isn't easy either. Like most things having to do with boats, effort in preparation will pay off during installation.
WHAT YOU NEED
First off, tools. A utility knife (sheetrock knife, carpet knife, etc.) is a must have. As an alternative, an Olfa rotary knife will do the job even better than utility knives (the Deluxe 60mm rotary costs around $30; www.olfablades.com).
One thing to remember, regardless of what you use, is that you want sharp blades ... and lots of them. The rotary blades won't get chewed up as quickly as the utility blades, but the sharper the blade, the easier (which also means safer) and neater the cuts. In other words, change blades (especially in utility knives) often if there's a lot of cutting to do.
The second tool you'll want is a heavy-duty scraper (again with plenty of blades). Keeping the scraper blades sharp is also a safety measure and goes a long way toward making the job easier.
Other tools needed include a tape measurer, steel straight edge, heavy-duty rubber gloves and a Magic Marker. A decent sander isn't a necessity, but if you've got one, it won't hurt to give the old deck a sanding before you start laying carpet.
One specialty tool you'll need is an adhesive spreader. This is a rectangular
trowel with a C-shaped handle in the center and square "teeth" on two sides; go for eighth-inch
(1/8) teeth. This will be used to spread the carpet adhesive. A recommended brand is Synergistecs
240, but any contact cement/adhesive specifically meant for outdoor carpet installation will work;
the average pontoon will require at least two gallons. You'll also need some lacquer thinner or
other chemical agent to help scrape up the adhesive residue left by the old carpet - an important
part of the project.
A word of caution: The adhesive and solvent fumes are potent and flammable - you might want to consider a respirator if you're working in an enclosed space. This project requires excellent ventilation and is best handled as an open-air project. Keep open flames, etc., away from the work surface.
You'll also want something with which to roll and apply pressure to the carpet once it's been laid. A wooden rolling pin will work if you have a strong back and arms. They make rollers for rolling out Formica and related countertop material, but you can also use a good piece of tubular wood or metal rigged to a rolling handle (similar to a paint roller). A last option is to rent one - ask for a 50-pound carpet roller.
CHOOSING THE CARPET
There's not a lot of arcane info to deal with regarding carpeting. Some boaters have opted to go with regular outdoor carpet, and few report any problems if the installation is done correctly. The problem, however, is longevity, and marine-specific carpet is going to last - and look good - longer.
There are different weights of marine carpet, and quality is discernible by feel. The plusher the carpet feels, the better the quality. Twenty-ounce carpet seems to be the mid-range weight, but depending on usage, how you store/cover your boat, what colors are available, how thick your wallet is, etc., you can go heavier (28- to 30-ounce). If you're going to put all of this effort into restoring your pontoon's looks, it's recommended that you not go lighter than 16 ounces.
You shouldn't encounter "loop" carpeting when dealing in marine carpeting. This is where the individual carpet fibers form a loop, and is most often found in regular outdoor carpeting, not marine-specific types. If, for some reason, you do encounter it, avoid it like the plague. No matter how you place a fishing rod down on it or use one near it, the hook will grab and stick in the loop.
You're looking for carpet with a heavy rubber backing, with material that's UV-stabilized and preferably made of Olefin fabric. Olefin is a polypropylene (and polyethylene) fabric that first appeared in the late '50s and offers good abrasion resistance; is colorfast and quick drying; is resistant to deterioration from chemicals, mildew, rot and weather; is stain-, soil- and sunlight-resistant; and is extremely lightweight. Most stains on this fabric can be readily removed with lukewarm water and detergent.
Cabela's (800/237-4444; www.cab-elas.com), Matworks (800/795-MATS; www.matworks.com) and R&R Textiles (800/835-5920; www.rrtextiles.com) are three carpet manufacturers, but by no means the only ones.
GETTING PREPARED
The hardest job with this project is removing the old carpet. An important factor to consider is whether there are too many complicated corners to keep the carpet intact and make a template. There shouldn't be on a pontoon boat, and you should be able to draw a good schematic using a tape measurer.
However, another reason to carefully remove a carpet is to avoid having to do a lot of scraping of the old rubber backing. This is where the chemicals come in handy. As you pull the old carpet up, use some of the chemical agent along the edge and in conjunction with the scraper to remove the backing along with the carpet. A sharp scraper really comes into play here (think about removing a window sticker from an auto windshield). A dull blade can hang up, slip and/or release at inopportune times, and you could end up with fat lips, split chins or worse.
You must have patience when removing the carpet. Going too fast and tearing away with abandon will cause you to have to go back and re-do the entire floor to remove that thin layer of backing that's still there. Take your time to do it right, do it slow, do it once.
LAYING IT DOWN
Roll the carpet with the topside (the side you'll be walking on) in, and roll it width-wise. This entire job can be done alone, but it's a whole lot easier with a helper.
The adhesive you'll be using is temperature-sensitive, so pay attention to the working range instructions on the can. The colder the air temp, the longer it will take to set; and it can be too cold out to use. You'll also want to take note of how fast your adhesive "skims," or gets tacky (read your adhesive's specific layout instructions).
These adhesives have a somewhat critical working time frame. Once you start, you'll need to finish the job, so plan accordingly.
Another concern is that you should only be covering "x" amount of area with adhesive (read the instructions) at a time. Spread glue, roll carpet, press carpet with roller. Spread glue, roll carpet, etc.
The adhesive is spread in lines created by the slots in the trowel edge. You can lay the adhesive in decorative swirls and curves (you have to entertain yourself a little), but you're trying to achieve complete coverage - there should be no areas where there isn't adhesive.
Match the carpet with the leading edge of your deck (if your deck is slightly V-shaped, lay it square and remove the extra carpeting rather than pre-cutting the carpeting) and slowly and carefully start rolling it onto the adhesive. As the carpet goes down, use the roller - put some body weight into it - to "embed" the carpet into the adhesive. Continue as noted above; i.e., spread, roll, press.
Avoid getting any adhesive on the carpet pile, and if you do, use your chemical agent (that you've tested to make sure it doesn't change the color of the carpet) to wipe it now, rather than after the adhesive sets. Continue the process, and presto: You've got a "brand new" pontoon boat.
If there are round cuts to be made (around seat or table bases), do not cut them until after the carpet is laid. All you need to do when you reach these irregularities is ensure that there's no glue or adhesive on the base and lay the carpet over them with a "cross" cut where the base is located at the length of the circle's diameter. This will allow the carpet to set flat; you can trim the remains afterwards.
As for intricate corners - such as stanchion uprights - simply cut two slits the length of the upright and leave the flap. Again, make sure there is no adhesive on the upright; this allows the carpet to lay flat and set, then you can trim the pieces after.
If your pontoon happens to have a lot of ins and outs, the best thing to do is make a template (assuming you couldn't keep the old carpet intact). You can precut the carpet to fit the template, but adhere to the "measure twice, cut once" rule. As always, it pays to be longer rather than shorter. For most long runs; i.e., the length of a lounge seat, etc., this should be pretty straightforward and simple to measure correctly. Leaving excess material will make laying the carpet more difficult, so measuring is key here.
Quick Tips
- Let the carpet warm up in the sun, especially in cooler weather. It's easier to work when it's warm.
- Change scraper and cutting blades regularly.
- Buy the right width to start. Fewer seams means better-looking installation.
- Preparation pays off.
- Cut (and keep) a piece of carpet to test with any chemicals you'll be using. Check for colorfastness, reaction to glue, etc., before you lay the carpeting out.
- If you do this indoors, wear a mask and gloves, and keep any form of open flame away - ventilation is key!
related articles:
New Attitude: Replacing the carpet on your pontoon can revamp your boat and leave it looking brand new.Replacing Trailer Wheel Hubs: If you keep your boat long enough and use it a lot, you may eventually need to consider replacing your trailer, especially if you boat in salt water.
Backing Into A Slip: There are a number of reasons for docking stern-to.
