As the Beach Boys sang, "Catch a wave, and you're sittin' on top of the world." Change "wave" to "wake," and the sentiment's the same. But we've known that since the dawn of the wakeboard era, nearly 20 years ago. And, to be honest, after a couple of decades of just about anything, most people are going to be looking for a way to spice things up, to inject a little life back into the lifestyle. For some, spice comes from learning a new aerial move, but for a lot of folks, the spice is coming from giving up the bindings and making the move from wakeboards to wakeskates.

If you're getting ready to make the move, too, there are a few things you should know to make the transition smoother and more enjoyable. Most importantly, you need to know what a wakeskate is. In essence, a wakeskate is a wakeboard without bindings, but that's kind of like saying a motorcycle is essentially a bicycle with an engine. True at some level, but not really the whole truth.

A wakeskate is more or less the same size and shape as a wakeboard, but there are some notable differences. For one thing, while virtually all wakeboards are compression-molded, many wakeskates feature wood core construction. Some riders and designers believe the wood gives the boards more of a "true skateboard feel." On the other hand, some designers and manufacturers believe that wood isn't a trustworthy core material because, well, wood can rot, so they offer strictly compression-molded skates. Riders disagree, too, but one thing that everyone does agree on is that there's a difference in the feel of a wood skate and that of a compression-molded skate.

Wakeskating can be confusing, especially for a newcomer, so here's the best advice: Demo a wood core skate and a compression-molded skate, then go with the one that feels best to you.

Of course, there's more to a wakeskate than the core construction. For one thing, since there are no bindings, wakeskates are covered with grip-enhancing material. Some have a thick rubber on the top that allows your toes to actually grip the board slightly, for more stability and control. It also adds a little protection against impact (for both board and feet) if you get a little exuberant and start performing aerials. Others have skateboard-style grip tape on the top, for the best possible grip. But you'll definitely want to wear shoes of some sort if you ride a skate that has sports grip tape - unless you like the feeling of your wet skin getting ripped off the soles of your feet.

Shoes are a good idea, even if your skate has a thick, luxurious padding that resembles a Tempur-Pedic mattress. Sure, there will always be some hardcore guy who'll give you grief because you're not "soul skating" with your skin in direct contact with the board. Ignore him. Shoes not only protect your skin, but also add grip and therefore control, so they're most highly recommended. The same can be said of leather-palmed gloves, so invest in a pair of them, too. And, of course, a good PFD with wide arm holes for a full range of motion.

As to which board is best for beginners, it's much the same as with wakeboards - skates "designed for beginners" tend to not be very good in general, and as soon as your skill improves even slightly, you'll want better gear. The fact is, a wakeskate that's great for a pro is also great for a beginner.

What really matters is how big you are and how you intend to skate. The rule of thumb is that your skate should more or less reflect your size, so if you're a potential Kentucky Derby jockey, you'll probably want a smaller board, and if you're an overstuffed watersports writer, you'll most likely need a big, fat board.

How you plan to ride plays a big role, though. Smaller boards are more maneuverable and lend themselves more readily to tricks, while larger boards are better for carving the wake. If you hope to soon be pulling shove-its, go smaller. If you want to learn to hang 10, go big.

People will be best served by a good all-around skate. Look for a comfortable, medium concave (wakeskates, like skateboards, are concave for better control), with a variable edge. As you progress, you may find you want a sharper edge for harder cuts, or a rounder edge for a more forgiving ride, but start with a variable edge.

Getting up on a wakeskate is, obviously, similar to deep-water starting on a wakeboard, but not identical. Use the same length of towrope as when wakeboarding. When you get to the handle, though, you'll want to use your leading hand (left hand for regular footers, right hand for goofies) to hold the rope handle and your trailing hand (the one not holding the handle) to hold the board to your feet. Your feet, by the way, should be about shoulder-width apart, more or less centered on the board. It's very important to not bend your back, but to flex your knees.

When you're ready, the driver needs to very slowly and gently add throttle. As the boat begins to accelerate, you'll feel the board "push" against your feet because of the water's resistance. At that point, release the board and grab the tow handle with your trailing hand so you have both hands on the handle.

As the boat continues to accelerate, be patient. Don't be in a rush to stand up and skate. There will be a point at which the board will feel as though it "wants" to get up on top of the water, and that's when you'll want to stand up. Not a second before. If you try to stand up too early, you'll have a ten-dency to push down with your toes and bury the leading edge of the board, with predictably unpleasant results.

Once you're up, start easy, surfing the wake to get an understanding of how the board feels and responds. Also, try moving around on the board - just a little, an inch or so at a time - to find where you feel most comfortable and in control, and to see how your position affects the skate's performance and ride. Make the most of the fact that you're riding unbound. Sure enough, you'll soon find yourself humming that old Beach Boys tune, "sittin' on top of the world."