An hour or so into the drive from Sacramento to Konocti Harbor Resort & Spa, the novelty of driving along twisty mountain roads begins to fade along with the sunlight as it dips below the summits. It's not unusual for first-time visitors to start checking their maps about this time, wondering if they've somehow gone off course and are going to become sort of ancient mariners of the highway, aimlessly wandering through the Sierras for all eternity. It's not unusual for a moment of self-doubt to creep in as well, to start wondering just why in the world one would want to go, apparently, to the exact middle of nowhere. Then you remember the Boardstock tickets tucked safely into your wallet, and you soldier on, because you've heard the stories, and you know the resort will justify the trek.

The destination is worth the journey. Located on a cove of Clear Lake, California's largest natural freshwater lake and possibly the oldest lake in North America, Konocti Harbor is a jewel nestled in the shadow of Mount Konocti.

Mount Konocti (and Konocti Harbor) takes its name from the Pomo word " Knoktai," which comes from the Pomo words for mountain ("kno") and woman ("hatai"), and it's pronounced, "koh-nok-TIE." The mountain is a dormant volcano, reaching some 4,300 feet above sea level, and it can be seen from anywhere on Clear Lake.

Clear Lake is estimated to have formed about 2.5 million years ago, starting out as a series of oxbow lakes. Those lakes came together to create Clear Lake, which today has approximately 64 square miles of surface area and more than 100 miles of shoreline. It's a shallow lake, averaging only 28 feet deep, but it's a chilly lake, with water temperatures averaging around 48 degrees Fahrenheit in December, and climbing to about 75 degrees Fahrenheit in August. Of course, since the air temperature in August usually tops out at about 95 degrees, that 75-degree water can feel mighty good.

Wherever there's water, there's going to be somebody fishing, and Clear Lake is no exception. Anglers here chase the usual suspects: black bass, catfish, crappie and bluegill. If you don't mind making another short drive, you can trailer over to Lake Pillsbury or one of the Blue Lakes and chase some rainbow trout.

Most of us who go to Konocti Harbor don't venture to other lakes, though. There's plenty around here to keep you busy, even if you're one who thinks Short Attention Span Theater tends to drag a bit. First and foremost, there's the marina, where you can dock your boat for a reasonable $15 per night, or, if you're a guest of the resort, you can use the launch ramp for free.

If you don't feel like trailering, the Konocti Harbor Marina is there for you, with everything from ski boats (rates start at $65 per hour and max out at $375 for a six-hour rental) to fishing boats ($35 per hour up to $225 for six hours). You can even rent a 15-passenger pontoon boat ($75 per hour up to $340 for four hours) or a kayak or pedal boat ($20 per hour midweek; $25 per hour weekends). And, of course, you can also rent just about every imaginable piece of watersports and angling gear. So, you can get all the water time you want, whether you bring your own equipment or use what's waiting there for you.

On this particular outing, the boat of choice is a Centurion Enzo SV240, a wakeboarding boat that meets all the requirements: It has a prop, a good motor and a tower. It will spend extensive time on the water, with and without a wakeboarder off the transom, without complaint or hesitation.

Konocti Harbor is, appropriately enough, in Konocti Bay. Clear Lake is sort of jellyfish-shaped, with a large main body to the northwest. At Horseshoe Bend, the lake narrows and splits into a couple of trailing arms. The northern arm includes Rattlesnake Island, and the larger, southern arm includes Konocti Bay. The southern arms, narrow and surrounded by mountains, have a tendency to turn into wind tunnels as the day goes by, so if you're going to be skiing or wakeboarding, the smart play is to get up and out on the water early, before the wind starts whipping up the whitecaps.

The first half of each day is set aside for watersports near Konocti Bay. (Anglers may opt for drowning worms.) If you time your visit right, those morning sets behind the boat will have you in the company of some of the world's top wakeboarders and wakesurfers as they warm up for the madness that is called Boardstock.

A good morning session can bring on a powerful hunger (and a lot of thirst), so when the sun and hunger peak, it's time to park the boat and find some food. Konocti Harbor has some great restaurants, and a good choice for lunch is to drive a couple of miles up Soda Bay Road to Pogo's Pizza Co. (9730 Soda Bay Road, 707/277-7777) for a fine pizza pie, run by Penny and Pete Ogo. Get yourself a large pizza and a couple of pints of Kona Brewing's Castaway IPA (only on draft), and you're living like kings and queens. And, it's less than a 10-minute drive from Konocti Harbor.

Afternoons are for taking it easy, especially with a large Pogo's pizza settled nicely in the belly, and still, the options are seemingly endless. The word on the street is that there are about a half-dozen wineries within an easy drive of Konocti Harbor, including the renowned Guenoc and Langtry Estate Vineyards, so a leisurely little wine tour is a possibility. Clear Lake has more than its share of quaint little towns with plenty of shopping opportunities, if that's how you like to spend your days. And there are a few casinos fairly nearby, if you're simply dying to give away some of your money.

Of course, the afternoon's also a good time for a leisurely cruise around Clear Lake. With 100 miles of shoreline, it can take you a few days to see all of Clear Lake, so if you're only visiting for a weekend, you have to be a little selective when you go cruising. Here's the hot tip: Set out from Konocti Harbor and head northwest. Go past Horseshoe Bend, and stay along the south shore. When you pass Henderson Point, you'll be in Soda Bay, where you'll see a truly unusual sight - the water bubbles from natural carbonation.

Soda Bay's carbonation is a result of the release of volcanic gases, which vent into the water, and it's definitely a sight to behold. You can kayak here, and it's been described as, "kayaking on champagne." You can also swim here, among the bubbles, but be careful - the gases can be dangerous in high concentration, so stay clear of the marked areas where these concentrations occur.

When you've been out on a carbonated lake in the shadow of an active volcano, you start realizing there are things in this world that are pretty great, even if they're a little hard to believe. The fact that you can see some of the biggest stars in music at Konocti Harbor, out in the middle of nowhere, is one of those things. But it's true, and it's why nights are reserved for music when you're here.

In 2006, Konocti Harbor shows included Kid Rock, Willie Nelson, Reggae Sunsplash, Hillary Duff and Larry the Cable Guy, some playing the 1,000-seat Joe Mazzola Classic Showroom, or outdoors in the 5,000-seat Konocti Field Amphitheatre, all within a two- or three-minute walk from your room at the resort. It's crazy, it's greatness, and it's one of the main reasons those who've discovered this place keep coming back.

Oddly, the drive from Clear Lake to Sacramento (or the Bay Area) doesn't seem nearly as tiring or take nearly as long as the drive from Sacramento to Clear Lake. They are the same roads and same mountains, but it seems so much easier. Maybe it's because you're not in such a hurry to get back home, or maybe it's because you know it won't be long before you're once again making the drive the other way, toward another rejuvenating weekend at Konocti.

BOARDSTOCK

Boardstock XII will return to Konocti Harbor in 2007, currently scheduled for Aug. 16-19. If it's anything like Boardstock XI, it's going to be wild, and it's not to be missed.

Boardstock is the biggest extreme watersports event in North America, and participants and promoters do everything they can to live up to the "extreme" part of that description. On a typical day, you might wake up to watch a few round of the world's best wakeboarders and wakesurfers ripping it up, then walk over to see BMX wild men doing flips and generally defying gravity before handing over the launch ramps to the top freestyle motocrossers in the business. Between the boarders and the bikers, it's an over-the-top celebration of air. These athletes are soaring, sailing and somersaulting right in front of your eyes, and then they're partying with you at the next event.

The elimination of the wall between participant and spectator is one of the best things about Boardstock. While not everyone gets a chance to compete, at some point, everyone does become a fan, so the person you were cheering wildly for during the wakeboarding event might well be standing and cheering right next to you at the freestyle motocross. And when the events are complete, everyone comes together for some of the biggest and best parties and concerts you'll ever see.

The lineup hasn't been set for Boardstock XII, but a glance back at Boardstock XI makes it pretty clear that the bar's been set high. At Boardstock XI, the concerts included Staind, Lifehouse, Collective Soul, Kid Rock and Alice in Chains. Every night, the Amphitheatre was filled to capacity, and it's expected to be even bigger in '07. (Don't worry if you can't get a ticket - you won't be able to see, but you can hear the concerts just fine from the area surrounding the amphitheatre.)

Information regarding Boardstock XII, sponsored by Centurion Boats, Konocti Harbor Resort & Spa, Konocti Presents Concerts, Skylon and Boating World, can be found online at www.boardstock.com. View the pages of Boating World for news and updates. www.konoctiharbor.com, (800) 660-LAKE - D.K.

Konocti Harbor Resort & Spa

Konocti Harbor Resort & Spa sits on 120 acres of Clear Lake shoreline, and since its grand opening in 1960, it's been considered one of California's most beautiful inland resorts. But it wasn't until a massive renovation in 1990 that Konocti took its current place as one of the country's finest all-around resorts, featuring first-class accommodations, activities and entertainment.

Rates start at $69 per night for midweek in the off season (excludes concert nights). For most special event weekends, rates start at $109 per night and top out at $599 per night for a VIP Suite. Most families will want to choose a Haven Apartment or a Beach Cottage ($249 per night on most special event nights; $199 per night for most non-concert weekends). Of course, if it's a couples getaway, the resort also offers traditional hotel rooms, including the highly romantic Vista Sun, Vista Moon, and Vista Star suites, each with a living room featuring a river rock fireplace and a four-person hot tub on the outdoor deck.

Whether you need a little deep-tissue work to clear out the kinks from a long, hard wakeboarding session, or just a little pampering, be sure and make an appointment at the Konocti Harbor's Dancing Springs Spa. (Sorry, kids, this one's for adults only - no one under age 18 is allowed in past the Salon.) You can soak up the heat of a steam or sauna bath, or bubble away in a whirlpool, if you just want to get rid of some toxins, or you can work up a sweat of your own in the fitness area. The spa treatments (sample treatments: "Relaxer," "Serenity," "Indulge Yourself," "Day of Pampering") will take you far away from the stress of everyday life. And here's a hot tip: Take your partner along for a decadent, four-hour "Heaven Can Wait" couples treatment ($495).

If you're able to move after the spa experience, a nice, relaxing something frozen while lounging around the pool by the Tenderfoot Bar is a pretty swell way to continue the unwinding process. The Full Moon Saloon is a bit more amped up, especially as the night goes on.

The Classic Rock Cafe' is really the only dining option at Konocti Harbor, so it's a good idea to alter your dining schedule just a tad to avoid the heavy rush hours. Stopping by 30 minutes or so before the usual lunch or suppertime will definitely help avoid some wait time. The "All That Jazz" Sunday Champagne Brunch, if you're available, is not to be missed. - D.K.