Q: I had my steering cable on my outboard replaced in April 2006 because it froze up. Now the steering is frozen again. I live in Maine and use the boat in salt water. The marina is telling me that steering cables are only good for two years with this use. Is that right?

— Wassachu, from the BoatingWorld.com forum

 

A: Nothing lasts forever, and salt water is probably the single most corrosive element in nature. A two-year failure rate for push-pull steering cables is excessive, though. Your boat seems to be "eating" cables at a rapid rate.

A steering cable has a flexible inner core that moves inside the jacket. It is pre-lubed at the factory for smooth operation. Cables typically fail from corrosion, often caused by salt water getting between the jacket and the core. This usually occurs at the motor end.

Study how your cable approaches the outboard motor. Is there a loop that dips below the level of the steering tube on the engine? A low spot created by that loop can trap moisture that slips past the cable seal, resulting in corrosion. Adjusting the routing of the cable may improve things.

You should also consider adding a Davis steering lubrication system ("Cable Buddy"). This is a special nut with a lubrication fitting that goes on the motor end of the cable. A proprietary lubricant can be used to both free up the cable and, according to the manufacturer, force water out of the system. Also, you may use a variety of other lubricants, including 90W gear lube or lithium grease with this fitting.

Finally, British naval hero Admiral Horatio Nelson once said, "Men and ships rot in port." The bottom line may be that your boat spends too much time in port. Equipment that gets regular use tends to work better and last longer. Go boating more often. You'll enjoy more time on the water, and so will your boat.

Q: What can cause the trailer to sway side to side? Too much speed? Misaligned wheels? Any suggestions would help.

— Jsalva, from the BoatingWorld.com forum

A: Trailer sway is serious business. It can cause your rig to go out of control, possibly with fatal results. Solve this problem before you start your summer adventures.

The number one reason for trailer sway is improper loading. As a rule of thumb, 55 to 60 percent of the load should be forward of the axle (or axles). Changing the boat's position on the trailer quickly adjusts the load weight. This is done by changing the position of the winch stand on the tongue. Sliding the stand forward (toward the car) increases the amount of load in front of the axle.

Moving the boat forward on the trailer increases the tongue weight. This is the amount of weight that presses down on the car's hitch. The rule is for tongue weight to equal between 5 and 7 percent of the total weight of the trailer. For a 2,500-pound boat and trailer, this means a tongue weight of 125 to 175 pounds.

Another factor in sway is the height of the tow vehicle tow bar. The ideal arrangement is for the trailer, tow bar and car body to be in a straight, level line. The trailer should neither go "uphill" to the hitch, nor nose down when connected to the tow car. Trailer parts stores have a variety of drawbars and adjustable hitches to solve this problem.

Large tongue weights can actually raise the car's front end and cause a loss of steering control. A weight-distributing hitch, which spreads tongue weight over the tow vehicle's back and front axles equally, can help alleviate this condition. As a result, you can expect better steering control when going downhill or driving through strong winds.

The last step is to install anti-sway controls. The simplest of these devices use friction to resist side-to-side movement of the trailer. The manufacturers of friction systems usually recommend releasing the friction in the event of rain or snow when control is needed most.

Although more expensive, a better option is a dual-cam anti-sway control. Going straight down the road, the cams keep things under control. When you turn, however, the cams disengage to provide full maneuverability. Cam systems do not need to be disconnected in rain.

A sudden onset of swaying in a trailer that has no history of this problem may indicate the breakdown of the sidewalls of one or more of its tires. Trailer tires seldom wear out from use. More often, they break down from old age. The tread may still be good, but experts say tires should still be replaced on a regular basis, about every five years.

In years gone by, radial-ply tires were accused of causing trailers to sway. Perhaps they did. Tire manufacturers have improved things. These days, they recommend radials when towing long distances at high speeds. Radial tires run cooler, and therefore last longer under those grueling conditions.

Finally, speed is a factor in both sway control and trailer safety. Going too fast will cause control problems no matter how much you have spent on load levelers or anti-sway devices. Often, a trailer that is docile at 60 mph becomes a wild mustang at 65. Know your rig and don't exceed its capabilities.