The trailer is quite possibly the hardest-working, yet least-appreciated member of the towing team. To the uninitiated, all trailers seem pretty much alike — some bunks, some wheels and a tongue that hooks up to the tow vehicle. But there’s a lot more to a trailer, and it’s important to know how to separate good from bad. And though it may seem to be counter-intuitive, you can tell a whole lot about a trailer and its abilities without road testing. Here are some of the items you should consider when choosing a trailer for your boat.

FRAME: The more metal the better, regardless of frame type or metal used. Look for uniform spacing of cross-members; closer spacing adds even more strength and durability.

BUNKS (IF EQUIPPED): Adjustable is better. Wood bunks that use a high grade of wood are less susceptible to rot and have few problems. Plastic or composite construction will allow the boat to slide on and off more easily, but it can also damage the hull on fiberglass boats.

ROLLERS (IF EQUIPPED): Adjustable is better. Inexpensive rollers without enough surface area could dimple hulls (especially heavier boats), so look for uniformity of roller shape. Wider rollers with “ flatter” surfaces are preferred.

WIRING: Tubular frame trailers should be pre-wired with wires running in the frame. Other frame types should use plastic conduits to protect the wiring. Look for frequent, reliable securing of conduits.

FINISH: Painted frames are only for freshwater use. Galvanized are good for both fresh and salt water, and aluminum is a popular saltwater option. There should be minimal imperfections in the finish; no sharp points or unfinished spots are acceptable.

WHEELS: Trailer tires (typically designated with the letters “ST”), which are made with stiffer sidewall and other unique features, are the way to go. Larger-diameter wheels turn slower (even at higher speeds), producing less heat, so your tires (and trailer) will last longer.

AXLE: Double-axles are able to support more weight but aren’t necessary for lighter boats. An adjustable axle will allow the trailer to be “customized” for the boat used.

SUSPENSION: Rubber torsion suspension is more expensive than leaf springs, but it’ll provide a smoother ride when the trailer is empty. The downside is that torsion axles do not work on tandem or multiple-axle trailers.

BRAKES: “Surge brakes,” which are used by about 90 percent of trailers, are difficult to road test but should add a noticeable assist when brakes are applied. Surge brakes should apply smoothly and gradually on downhills; sudden “grabs” are not acceptable. Electric brakes are required for larger loads and should be road-tested. They should assist smoothly and predictably, mirroring the input from the brake pedal as closely as possible.