<rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Boating World Ask the Experts</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/</link><description>Boating World all ask the experts for current month.</description><ttl>60</ttl><item><title>I spent $15,000 on a new four-stroke engine that ran fine when I bought it less than a year ago. Now, I can only get 3000 rpm before it starts missing and popping. I miss my two-stroke! What's going on?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ispent15000onanewfour-strokeenginethatranfinewhenIboughtitlessthanayearago.NowIcanonlyget3000rpmbefo1b001009.aspx</link><description>My first thought is that a rev-limiter is kicking in at 3000 rpm. Now, why is the limiter kicking in? Maybe because the oil was changed and the reminder wasn't reset. Maybe because the engine is overheating. Maybe because one of the dozen or so</description><author>Grid Michal</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I saw a boat for sale for $800 and I want the motor. It's a 1993 40 hp Suzuki. I was told that Suzukis are great motors, especially the older ones because they were made from stainless steel and brass, which made it a motor that will practically last forever. Is a '93 made with this same construction?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Isawaboatforsalefor800andIwantthemotor.Itsa199340hpSuzuki.IwastoldthatSuzukisaregreatmotorsespeciallb2719b59.aspx</link><description>The Suzukis are great engines. I've been associated with them since the 1970s, and problems have been few. The 40 was one of my favorites, easily used as a workhorse for watermen for runabout power. Built from about 1980 to 1997, it was essentially</description><author>Grid Michal</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>The winters are mild enough in my area that freeze damage isn't normally a problem, but I just discovered a burst water pump in the bilge. In the future I want to heat the bilge and engine compartment to prevent any issues; what's the safest and most efficient heater for an inboard engine boat?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/ThewintersaremildenoughinmyareathatfreezedamageisntnormallyaproblembutIjustdiscoveredaburstwaterpump6fabe1a4.aspx</link><description>I never had a problem with the old classic - a low-wattage lightbulb - but the Coast Guard and American Boat &amp;amp; Yacht Council now recommend against using them because they present a potential fire hazard. Forced-air heaters (from Boatsafe,</description><author>Lenny Rudow</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I'm moving to the coast in Rhode Island and taking my 24-foot center console with me. I'm going to keep the boat in the water, so I have to paint the bottom, which has never been painted. What's the procedure?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/ImmovingtothecoastinRhodeIslandandtakingmy24-footcenterconsolewithme.Imgoingtokeeptheboatinthewaters73b2cacf.aspx</link><description>There are five basic steps: cleaning, degreasing, sanding, priming and painting. First, wash the bottom thoroughly with soap and warm water. Then wipe the surface with a solvent wash or degreaser to remove traces of waxy mold release. Next, sand</description><author>Steve Knauth</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>My teenage son and I are starting to look for a used boat we can go out fishing on together. We want a trailer, too, and a lot of the boats we see include one. What do we look at in a used trailer? Can you publish a quick guide to small boat trailer inspection?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/MyteenagesonandIarestartingtolookforausedboatwecangooutfishingontogether.Wewantatrailertooandalotoft1d71adb9.aspx</link><description>Check the frame for signs of stress such as buckling or wrinkling, cracks and corrosion. Pay special attention to welds and attachment points. Inspect the U-bolts that hold the axles in place. Again, looks for signs of stress or excessive corrosion:</description><author>Steve Knauth</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I'm looking for the best fishfinder in the $500 range. I'm intrigued by the new Humminbirds and 3-D color monitors, but don't know how important these features are for an average Joe like me. Could you help me prioritize my fishfinding needs? </title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Imlookingforthebestfishfinderinthe500range.ImintriguedbythenewHumminbirdsand3-Dcolormonitorsbutdontk9c79db1d.aspx</link><description>Hey Average Joe - I'm afraid that Humminbird discontinued inexpensive 3-D models, like the ($500) Matrix 47, so there aren't any in your price range. In fact, now you'd have to upgrade to its Si (side-imaging) units to get a 3-D-style view, the</description><author>Lenny Rudow</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I use Slick 50 in my pickup and both my cars and like it very much. It reduces friction and gives me a ton of power. Can I use it in my 1993 19.5-foot Glastron Fish &amp; Ski with a 4.3L V-6 with 250 hours on it?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/IuseSlick50inmypickupandbothmycarsandlikeitverymuch.Itreducesfrictionandgivesmeatonofpower.CanIuseit40cc24de.aspx</link><description>The short answer is "yes." Just remember that because the way you operate a boat is so much different from the way you operate your pickup, you won't be able to see the performance benefits that you'd see in something like my 1996 Dodge Ram with</description><author>Grid Michal</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I've noticed carbon deposits starting to form on the spark plugs of my outboard. What's the best/easiest way to clean them off, and how do I keep them from coming back?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ivenoticedcarbondepositsstartingtoformonthesparkplugsofmyoutboard.Whatsthebesteasiestwaytocleanthemo8cad0348.aspx</link><description>The first line of defense is quality engine oil, generally offered by the manufacturer, whether it's the latest TC-W3 (two-cycle) or FC-W (four-stroke) oil. Next, consider using a liquid "Carbon Guard" or similar in the fuel. They are also available</description><author>Grid Michal</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>One of my friends tells me I need a water pressure gauge on my Yamaha-powered Century. I'm certain he wouldn't steer me wrong, but I'd like to know why I "need" it.</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/OneofmyfriendstellsmeIneedawaterpressuregaugeonmyYamaha-poweredCentury.Imcertainhewouldntsteermewronacd2446f.aspx</link><description>Unless the gearcase water pickups are running perilously close to the surface of the water where they can start sucking air instead of water (like a bass boat/jack plate situation), as long as the water pump is in decent shape the engine will run in</description><author>Grid Michal</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>For some time it has seemed like no one could hear me on the VHF radio. I thought it was an antenna problem, but I've noticed that the LCD screen fades whenever I transmit. Does this mean my radio needs to be replaced?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/ForsometimeithasseemedlikenoonecouldhearmeontheVHFradio.IthoughtitwasanantennaproblembutIvenoticedtha42688ea.aspx</link><description>Probably not; it sounds like you simply have a bad ground or a flakey connection somewhere. To find out for sure, run temporary leads from the battery directly to the radio. I'll bet the screen stops fading, and other boaters can hear you without a</description><author>Lenny Rudow</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I have a late 1990s Yamaha 150 hp two-stroke that was fine until I took it to the dealer for a precautionary water pump change. When I got the engine back, it would do the visible discharge for a few minutes, then quit and the alarm would come on. I took it back, and it was returned with the same results. Now I notice there’s water in the lower cowl. What gives? </title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ihavealate1990sYamaha150hptwo-strokethatwasfineuntilItookittothedealerforaprecautionarywaterpumpchan9dcb2e80.aspx</link><description>Dollars to doughnuts the pop-off hose has popped off - not what it&amp;rsquo;s supposed to do. It&amp;rsquo;s held in place by a tie strap that has a limited lifetime. Look under the electricals at the starboard rear of the engine, just in front of the</description><author>Grid Michael</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I have a 2007 cruiser that has two Volvo Penta sterndrives. Both are 5.7 liter OSXI engines. When I refuel, if the starboard tank takes 40 gallons, then the port tank will take 60 gallons. This consistently happens even though I’m careful to operate both engines at approximately the same rpm and when refueling always fill each one full. The dealer says that it is common to have unequal fuel usage on duplicate engines. That big a difference seems wrong to me. What do you think? What should be checked if you agree with me?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ihavea2007cruiserthathastwoVolvoPentasterndrives.Bothare5.7literOSXIengines.WhenIrefuelifthestarboaraaca1183.aspx</link><description>I concur that the 20-gallon disparity isn&amp;rsquo;t right. Newer engines have many sensors that pass their info to the ECM. The ECM collates that info and changes spark intensity, timing and fuel distribution in order to give you a smooth-operating</description><author>Grid Michael</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I inherited a V-6 Johnson from my father-in-law. I can run this engine all day at 4500 rpm. Any faster, and within a minute the overheat alarm comes on. The water discharge is always strong; the water gushes out the two holes at the top of the engine. The scenario never changes. Any help?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/IinheritedaV-6Johnsonfrommyfather-in-law.Icanrunthisenginealldayat4500rpm.Anyfasterandwithinaminutet1aadc64e.aspx</link><description>You&amp;rsquo;ll need a friend for this one. One of you drives while the other uses one of those handy temperature guns to check the external cylinder temperatures. I&amp;rsquo;d bet that at 4500 rpm, all six cylinders are showing about the same temp.</description><author>Grid Michael</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>My 1998 Baha 454 Merc has a surge problem. It will surge 200 to 400 rpm from cruising speed, then drop below the speed I was at. I’ve had five topnotch marine mechanics work on my boat, but no fix.</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/My1998Baha454Merchasasurgeproblem.Itwillsurge200to400rpmfromcruisingspeedthendropbelowthespeedIwasatb2eab84e.aspx</link><description>If I were working on it, I&amp;rsquo;d sit by the engine with an inductive timing light until the engine dropped rpm, then attach the timing light to one plug wire after another. I&amp;rsquo;m guessing that a plug is dropping out of the equation: The rpm</description><author>Grid Michael</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>Why is my boat service so expensive at the dealership? Mark Willis, Cedar Grove, TX Excellent question - one most boaters don’t ask, but just complain about.</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/WhyismyboatservicesoexpensiveatthedealershipMarkWillisCedarGroveTXExcellentquestion-onemostboatersdoc3ace09c.aspx</link><description>First, your boat is designed with your dream in mind: sunpad, swim platform, fishbox and stowage aplenty. Unfortunately, the swim platform covers the outdrive, which means the boat often has to be removed from the trailer for drive servicing. The</description><author>Grid Michael</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I just bought a used 2006 22- foot walk-around powered by a single 200 hp Suzuki four-stroke outboard. It has a Navman fuel monitor installed, but whenever I run the boat it jumps around like crazy. I’m not talking about a little fluctuation: One moment it reads 0 gph, and the next, 20 gph. I’ve tried removing and cleaning the transducer, but there was no change. How do I fix it? </title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ijustboughtaused200622-footwalk-aroundpoweredbyasingle200hpSuzukifour-strokeoutboard.IthasaNavmanfuef6db9f49.aspx</link><description>You don&amp;rsquo;t. In fact, the monitor is probably working just fine. Your problem lies in the nature of your motor, not the flow meter. Like many other modern four-strokes it has a lift pump that cycles on and off feeding fuel into the system, which</description><author>Lenny Rudow</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>We installed swing-up davits for our inflatable dinghy this season. The inflatable now sits on the swim platform. My concern is that it blocks the stern light of my boat. I’ve been told that as long as I have a light, that’s OK, but I’m not sure. What’s the truth? </title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Weinstalledswing-updavitsforourinflatabledinghythisseason.Theinflatablenowsitsontheswimplatform.Mycoe57db694.aspx</link><description>The rules of the road (inland or international) consider an obscured navigation light the same as a missing light. So, with an inflatable covering it up, you are not complying with the law. If someone should run into you from astern at night, you</description><author>Capt. David G. Brown</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I have a 1993 Seasport 22 with a Volvo Penta outdrive on a 350 short-block Chevy with 811 hours. I noticed that the port exhaust has less water coming out. The water is also warmer than on the starboard side. I replaced the hoses from the heat exchanger and both of the manifolds and elbows. The problem is exactly the same. What should I do next?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ihavea1993Seasport22withaVolvoPentaoutdriveona350short-blockChevywith811hours.Inoticedthattheportexhb0381a3b.aspx</link><description>You mention replacing the hoses, manifold and elbows, but not the risers. These are immediately suspect because they&amp;rsquo;re prone to failure every few years. The risers are the double-walled pipe within a pipe, holding water that cools exhaust</description><author>Lenny Rudow</author><publishdate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I want to install some cleats on my dock to tie up my boat. How do I know what size to buy?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Iwanttoinstallsomecleatsonmydocktotieupmyboat.HowdoIknowwhatsizetobuydaf7910e.aspx</link><description>Within limits, bigger is better when it comes to cleats on a dock. You can&amp;rsquo;t predict what size line it will have to accommodate in the future. The rule-of-thumb is for the cleat to be 2 inches long for every 1/8th-inch of rope diameter. A</description><author>Capt. David G. Brown</author><publishdate>Thu, 31 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>We recently purchased a boat that has hydraulic steering. It steers hard. I checked and the pump needs fluid, but the oil leaking out is red, while all the fluid I can find is nearly clear in color. How do I find the right fluid, and will that help make the boat steer easier?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Werecentlypurchasedaboatthathashydraulicsteering.Itsteershard.Icheckedandthepumpneedsfluidbuttheoill4361c349.aspx</link><description>The red &amp;ldquo;oil&amp;rdquo; is wrong! The nearly clear hydraulic fluid sold by marine stores is correct for your system. Most likely, the previous owner used transmission fluid (ATF) instead of the correct hydraulic oil. ATF is cheaper. Contrary to</description><author>Capt. David G. Brown</author><publishdate>Thu, 31 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I just bought a little aluminum runabout from the 1960s, and it needs the bottom redone. I’d like to do it myself. What kinds of strippers are best for removing the old paint, and what’s the best system for repainting?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ijustboughtalittlealuminumrunaboutfromthe1960sanditneedsthebottomredone.Idliketodoitmyself.Whatkinds9414b43e.aspx</link><description>For stripping, try one of the new &amp;ldquo;green&amp;rdquo; strippers such as Back to Nature&amp;rsquo;s Aqua-Strip. It&amp;rsquo;s a paste that stays wet on the surface, penetrating old layers of bottom paint for easy removal. It even cleans up with water. Then</description><author>Steve Knauth</author><publishdate>Thu, 31 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I want to add carpeting in my wake boat. I’ve heard that I can send away for precut carpet and install it myself. Who does it, and how does it work? </title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Iwanttoaddcarpetinginmywakeboat.IveheardthatIcansendawayforprecutcarpetandinstallitmyself.Whodoesita8812bfd8.aspx</link><description>Taylor Made Products offers a Custom Snap-In Replacement Carpet Template Kit that&amp;rsquo;s pretty easy to use. It can work for new carpet, but you&amp;rsquo;ll have to add one step. Normally, you would take out your old carpet and trace its shape on the</description><author>Steve Knauth</author><publishdate>Thu, 31 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I want to buy my first pontoon boat and need your advice on the following questions: &lt;p&gt;Can the pontoon boat remain in a covered dock during the off-season, or should it be moved out of the water? The boat will be used in Georgia Lake. 
&lt;p&gt;What is the proper care if the boat is left in the covered dock? Does winter weather have damaging effects on the outboard motor and the twin pontoons left on the water?
&lt;p&gt;If the pontoon is moved out of the water in the winter months, what is the best way to store it? On a trailer or store it in a marina facility?
</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/IwanttobuymyfirstpontoonboatandneedyouradviceonthefollowingquestionspCanthepontoonboatremaininacover38fc8fd8.aspx</link><description>A pontoon boat is an excellent choice for maximum fun on any of Georgia&amp;rsquo;s lakes. It may be possible to consider year-round boating, especially in the southern portions of your state.
That said, no pontoon boat is designed for the pressures of</description><author>Capt. David G. Brown</author><publishdate>Thu, 31 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>Last month I went under a
low bridge with my VHF
antenna up and snapped it
off midway. I replaced the antenna
and the unit seems to be receiving
just fine. But since changing the
antenna the VHF doesn’t seem to be
transmitting. Did I get a dud antenna?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/LastmonthIwentunderalowbridgewithmyVHFantennaupandsnappeditoffmidway.Ireplacedtheantennaandtheunitsecba66d23.aspx</link><description>Go back to the connection between the antenna wire and the plug and resolder it. Most units will receive surprisingly well with a bad antenna connection, but won&amp;rsquo;t transmit worth a darn, so I&amp;rsquo;m betting this is the root of your problem.</description><author>Lenny Rudow</author><publishdate>Thu, 31 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>Help! The cover for a used inflatable I just bought is pretty badly mildewed. Can I clean it up?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/HelpThecoverforausedinflatableIjustboughtisprettybadlymildewed.CanIcleanitupaf2e3e1c.aspx</link><description>Covers are prime breeding grounds for mildew. It&amp;rsquo;s a good idea to stretch the cover out, either on the boat or dockside. Give it a good wet-down and wash it using a soft brush and a specialized cleaner, such as Aurora&amp;rsquo;s Boat Clean Plus</description><author>Steve Knauth</author><publishdate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I’ve been a do-it-yourselfer for years now, and I wax my boat before and after the season. I never really get the results I would like to achieve. I want to know if I should apply the wax with a machine and remove it by hand, or apply it by hand and remove it with the machine.</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ivebeenado-it-yourselferforyearsnowandIwaxmyboatbeforeandaftertheseason.IneverreallygettheresultsIwo59298ebe.aspx</link><description>In the old days, I&amp;rsquo;d say buff with a machine, wax by hand. But today, I recommend a machine. The ideal setup is a compound and wax matched with the right kinds of pads on a good, variable slow-speed (900-2700 rpm) random orbital polisher. For</description><author>Steve Knauth</author><publishdate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>Am I just a klutz, or does everyone have trouble backing their car up to the boat trailer? I can’t seem to get the ball under the hitch without a lot of fussing. What’s the secret?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/AmIjustaklutzordoeseveryonehavetroublebackingtheircaruptotheboattrailerIcantseemtogettheballunderthe1ab9d682.aspx</link><description>Over the years a lot of gimcracks have been developed to solve this problem. The most successful is the DuraSafe coupler/hitch ball alignment tool. Its stainless steel &amp;ldquo;wings&amp;rdquo; guide the trailer hitch over the ball. When not guiding the</description><author>Capt. David G. Brown</author><publishdate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I have a 1994 18-footer. Why is the stock thermostat at such a low setting (146 degrees)? The thermostat in my car is 195 degrees, and this helps with complete combustion and the overall efficiency of the engine. The water temperatures up here in Great Slave Lake in the Northwest Territories, Canada where I run are just a few degrees above freezing even in the summer. My stock thermostat barely indicates above cold. What do you suggest as a good temperature to run  this boat?</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ihavea199418-footer.Whyisthestockthermostatatsuchalowsetting146degreesThethermostatinmycaris195degre2973aff2.aspx</link><description>Your marine thermostat is set for a lower operating temperature than a car. You are also right that a higher operating temperature would get better performance out of your engine. However, swapping thermostats may not be as simple as it</description><author>Capt. David G. Brown</author><publishdate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I’ve had to replace my throttle quadrant switch three times over the last two years. Any idea why the micro switch keeps going bad? It’s an inexpensive little switch to replace, but it’s not easy to get at.</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ivehadtoreplacemythrottlequadrantswitchthreetimesoverthelasttwoyears.Anyideawhythemicroswitchkeepsgod37fa728.aspx</link><description>This is a very common problem. Most of the time, this switch goes bad because moisture gets inside the throttle housing and creates havoc. Rainwater alone can be the culprit, so boats stored in the open are most at risk. Quite often, simply keeping</description><author>Lenny Rudow</author><publishdate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item><item><title>I just inherited a pontoon boat that must be 30 years old. The pontoons are good, but the deck is soft and the seats are trash. Can it be fixed up? We would like to keep it on the lake behind our cottage. The lake has a 10 horsepower limit, so a pontoon boat would be ideal.</title><link>http://www.boatingworld.com/askexpert/pages/Ijustinheritedapontoonboatthatmustbe30yearsold.Thepontoonsaregoodbutthedeckissoftandtheseatsaretrash4b7b2374.aspx</link><description>If the pontoons are still solid, you have a boat worth fixing up. Start by replacing the deck. Remove the old furniture, the deck railing and the metal edge around the existing deck. Pull up the carpet to expose the screws holding the plywood deck</description><author>Capt. David G. Brown</author><publishdate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT</publishdate></item></channel></rss>